Running

This is the most basic stitch, use it as a substitute for sewing a machine straight stitch.

Pass the needle in and out of the fabric in a horizontal line. Take several stitches on the needle before pulling through. This will help you keep the line straight.

Even Basting

Long running stitches are used to hold two pieces of fabric together while they are permanently sewn. Stitches should be about 1/2” / 12mm long. It is best to pin before basting.

Uneven Basting

This is a long stitch followed by a short stitch, so that both stitches are taken on the needle at once. This stitch is used in seams where there is no strain or as a guide for sewing.

Diagonal Basting

This is used to hold together two or more thicknesses of fabric. This is a slant stitch on the top side of the fabric and a straight up-and-down stitch on the under thickness.

Backstitch

This is a very secure stitch used to hold garment seams together. This can be used in place of a sewing machine stitch.

Start with a small running stitch then enter the fabric at the end of the last stitch (A), come back up two stitch lengths in length (B). Enter the fabric again at the end of the last stitch made (C).

Overcast

There are two types of overcasting stitches: the loose quick overcasting used to finish a seam to prevent the edge from raveling and a closer overcasting used on straight edges. You can use the close type to put pieces of fabric together, too.

Bring the needle up at one end of the work and take a stitch from behind the edge. Keep the stitches twice as far apart as they are deep.

Hem / Blind Stitch

For hemming, fold under the raw edge of the fabric and then fold again on hem line. Take up only a thread or two in the fabric. Insert the needle into the fold of the hem.

Slip

This stitch provides a nearly invisible finish. Slide the needle inside the fold and come out and pick up only a thread or two, then go back into the fold for the next stitch.

Whip

With the wrong side of the fabric facing you, turn the edge slightly and roll it an inch / 25mm or more. Use the Overcast stitch and pass the needle under the roll, not through it. You can create a decorative finish by rolling up the fabric in different quantities and varying thread tightness.

Blind Catch

This stitch is worked from left to right. Take a tiny stitch in the hem or seam and then in the fabric with the needle pointing to the left. Keep and even slant to the stitches.

Catch

This stitch is more flexible then the Blind Catch Stitch. This is also worked from left to right.

Padding

Take a long diagonal stitch on the inside and a short stitch that barely catches on the outside. These stitches are worked very loosely, don’t pull them tight. It is used to hold a piece of fabric in place.