Patternmaker Pro patterns include various markings. These marks designate different things depending on where they are located. Common markings are explained below. There are other marks that are not included here, but the pattern or pattern description will explain their use.
Pattern Outline
As shown in Figure 1, the outline of a pattern is shown in a solid black line. This is the line you want to use when aligning patterns on fabric to match stripes and patterns. This is the sewing line.
Seam Allowances
As shown in Figure 1, the seam allowance line is shown in a solid blue. This is the cutting line you will follow when cutting out your fabric.
Pattern Information
Pattern details are printed out in green (see Figure 1). These can be located anywhere inside the pattern outline or outside of it. These details generally include the name of the pattern, the measurement set that was used, the date and cutting information. This is important information and should always be read.
Some patterns will have other text in green, such as the armhole or collar lengths of the pattern.
Notches
Notches are shown on two separate patterns where the two patterns are to be aligned before sewing. There are several different types of notches in Patternmaker Pro and the colors will indicate their purpose.
On a sleeve you will find pink and purple notches. The pink notch on the sleeve matches to a pink notch on a front armhole. The purple notch on the sleeve matches to a purple notch on the back armhole.
You will find blue notches down long lines of two mating patterns. For example, the side seam of many tops or pants have blue notches on the front and back patterns. This helps for alignment and pinning before sewing.
Break Lines
Some patterns are simple rectangles that are very long or wide. These don't make sense to draft, as it is much easier to measure and mark the fabric without using a pattern and cut from there. You can also tear some fabric to make sure that the rectangles are exactly on grain. Patternmaker Pro will provide an abbreviated pattern so you can get all the information you need to cut out the fabric. This pattern will include break lines on it.
As shown in the pattern illustrated above, these patterns are clearly marked Do Not Cut. However, the seam allowance information is still there for your use along with the dimensions of the shape you will cut from the fabric. The red zig-zag lines indicate the pattern has been broken and there is pattern missing between the lines. In the image above, the correct width is drafted at 4.5", but the pattern should be 85" long.
Facing Lines
Facing lines are black dashed lines found on patterns. These lines designate where a facing edge is. Usually, you would cut out the entire pattern on the seam allowance line as usual. Then you would cut the pattern again to the facing line to create the facing for the pattern.
Buttons & Buttonholes
Buttons and buttonholes are marked on the patterns. These are shown in blue. The button circle will be the size that was chosen as the button size variable.
Folding Lines
The are many times when you need to fold your fabric to make pleats or other shapes. There are three folding lines illustrated on Patternmaker Pro patterns.
A dashed red line is a fold out line. This means that the fabric is folded so that the fold line is visible and the wrong sides of the fabric are facing each other.
A dashed blue line is a fold in line. This means that the fabric is folded so that the fold line is not visible and the right sides of the fabric are facing each other.
A dashed grey line is a fold neutral line. This means that the fabric is not folded at all. The line is there only as a reference. After you have made a fold in or fold out line, you will bring that fold over to a neutral grey line.
Dart Leg Folding Lines
Darts are illustrated with two dashed blue lines for folding the dart closed.
Grading Lines
Patterns that have been graded for multi-size patterns have a series of different lines. Please refer to the Grading page for more information.