From Paper to Computer
I had challenges when creating the Patternmaker Pro program. I wanted the program to create the most accurate patterns possible based solely on one person's measurements, but this really hadn't been done before.
Most of the drafting books that were used for reference use traditional sizing standards and were intended for paper and pencil drafting.
Because it was all hand drafted, they utilize charts for looking up random amounts to add or added somewhat arbitrary amounts during the drafting process. This isn’t practical when creating a automated system like Patternmaker Pro.
The sloper patterns in Patternmaker Pro do not have additions to the model's base measurements when drafting, unless there is a sound reason for it. All other patterns in the system, which are derived from those slopers, should fit as intended.
Garments that are not slopers will have ease and fullness added as dictated by the design of the garment. You can make further adjustments using ease and other variables to make slight tweaks to your patterns.
Another thing that is very difficult with automated computer drafting is curves. When drafting by hand you use a French Curve laying it in a way that it hits several key points. Then you trace the curve. I didn't have that luxury in programming.
Sometimes curves will need to be adjusted. This is why you are strongly encouraged to create a sloper set. You can work with your pattern to find the perfect curves for armholes and necklines. Refine your sloper patterns and use them in the future to adjust other patterns.
Print out the Design Ruler to get the perfect shape for adjusting curves. It is located in the Patternmaker Pro > Other Patterns Catalog.
You'll find that some patterns have sharp edges, as is the case with this french lining sloper.
You'll need to either use the Fashioner to smooth these out or just use a french curve on the printed PDF. In the image below, the Fashioner was used by adding Free Points on either side of the sharp corners, then those points were used to created a curve. The generated curve point (green point) was moved to follow the pattern shape.
Dart Extensions & Seam Allowance
When a dart is sewn closed there is more fabric needed between the dart legs than just a standard seam allowance. The system will do its best to calculate this dart extension, but you should test it before cutting out your fabric.
Cut out your PDF pattern leaving extra length between the dart legs. Fold your dart closed pressing the fold to the appropriate side. Cut across the pattern and verify.
Patternmaker Pro is a solid program that drafts patterns that will fit better than anything you can find elsewhere. But it isn't perfect. Always keep your eyes open and verify anything that looks wrong to you before cutting into your favorite fabrics.