Contour Draft Variables

There are garments that are designed to follow the contours of the body very closely. These include strapless dresses and gowns, as well as swimwear. In order to fit the model precisely, the pattern draft requires more measurements. These measurements allow the pattern to be adjusted to remove gapping at the armhole, gapping at a lowered neckline and to contour under the bust for empire designs. Although these values are small, they can make a large difference in the fit of garments.

There are four measurements, as well as the bra cup size, that are needed for this precision. Patternmaker Pro shows these measurements as variables with default values. Some patterns will only use one of these measurements and others may use all of them. The measurements are explained and illustrated below.

Contour Neckline Adjustment

This adjustment removes excess fabric at the overbust level preventing gapping at the neckline.

This measurement is taken by placing a ruler (shown in black) at the mid-neck point (halfway between the side neck point and the center front neck point) down to the bust point. Use another ruler to measure the depth from the first ruler to the model at the overbust level. The default value for this measurement is 1/4" / 6.4mm.

Contour Armhole Adjustment

This adjustment removes excess fabric to prevent gapping at the armhole.

This measurement is taken by placing a ruler (shown in black) at the bust point extending up to the shoulder point. Use another ruler to measure the depth at approximately the overbust level. The default value for this measurement is 1/2" / 12.7mm.

Contour Empire Adjustment

This adjustment removes excess fabric under the bust for contouring.

This measurement is taken by placing a ruler (shown in black) at the waist extending up to the bust point. Use another ruler to measure the depth at the underbust level. The default value for this measurement is 3/4" / 19mm.

Contour Center Bust Adjustment

This measurement removes excess fabric between the breasts.

This measurement is taken by placing a ruler (shown in black) across the bust points. Use another ruler to measure the depth at the center between the breasts. The default value for this measurement is 3/4" / 19mm.