Just like everything else on Patternmaker Pro, pattern categorization and sizing is a bit different. This is going to be odd if you are used to purchasing patterns or buying ready-wear garments.
The categories below are generalizations and will typically result in the best fit for a given model.
Category / Age | Minimum Height | Maximum Height | Minimum Height | Maximum Height |
Infant | 560 mm | 920 mm | 22 inches | 36.2 inches |
Child (Plus) | 980 mm | 1700 mm | 38.6 inches | 66.9 inches |
Adult X (Mature, Young) | 1460 mm | 1981 mm | 57.5 inches | 78 inches |
Adult Y (Mature, Young) | 1460 mm | 1981 mm | 57.5 inches | 78 inches |
Adult XY (Mature, Young) | 1460 mm | 1981 mm | 57.5 inches | 78 inches |
One big difference in Patternmaker Pro is the ability to draft any pattern using any measurements set! You don't have to contain yourself to a particular category.
These categories pertain to the pattern drafting techniques used by the Patternmaker Pro program. Because Patternmaker Pro allows you to draft a pattern from any category for every measurement set, it has to be able to make conversions.
The primary reason for the categories is scale. When you are drafting patterns you use techniques that involve adding or subtracting a unit of measure (inches or centimeters) in key areas. If an adult pattern called for a spread of 4 inches / 10.2 cm, using that same 4 inches / 10.2 cm on a pattern for a child or infant would break the draft.
Patternmaker Pro uses the height in the measurement set to make adjustments automatically. An adult pattern is drafted for a full grown person, a child would be X percent of that based on their height. That X percent is used to adjust any values needed for drafting.
For example, if a child is 3ft / 914.4mm tall and an adult pattern draft called for a 2 inch / 50.8mm spread, it would adjust the spread down to 1.25 inches / 31.8mm. (914.4/1460*50.8)
This would allow the pattern to draft for virtually any size model, even a doll. Of course, this is the best case scenario and things can go wrong. Always verify your patterns before cutting any of your fabric!
The difference between the Adult X and the Adult Y is darts. Bodice slopers intended for a person with a bust, that exceeds the size of the waist, has a bust dart that is an important part of the draft.
You will notice there is absolutely no reference to gender, we use the X and Y designations. With cosplay, costumes and non-binary gender folks, we think that traditional categories are outdated and limiting.
Pattern companies like to categorize designs based on age, too. I don’t think this is necessary. Children are wearing very complex designs these days mimicking the wardrobes of adults. Also, the simple style lines of children’s clothing can be very appealing and easy to sew. You’ll find no age or gender boundaries in Patternmaker Pro.